Medieval One-Handed Sword with Crosses in Guard

Medieval One-Handed Sword with Crosses in Guard

The one-handed arming sword emerged onto the scene around the 10th century and enjoyed great popularity with the members of the fighting nobility in the High and Late Middle Ages. It evolved from the Viking sword, which itself had gradually developed from the spatha. While the high medieval arming sword had a longer guard than its early medieval precursor, the blade was somewhat narrower and more tapered at the tip.

The high and late medieval one-handed sword with straight blade is also commonly referred to as a knightly sword. Numerous historical illustrations of medieval knights wielding a one-hander and a shield or buckler, for example miniatures from the Codex Manesse or the Sachsenspiegel, demonstrate how fitting this designation is.

The one-handed sword was the close combat weapon of choice of the medieval knight and could be used for cutting or thrusting depending on its design. Until about the mid-14th century, it usually featured a broader blade with sharper edges and was primarily devised as a cutting weapon capable of dealing with light chainmail protection. But the introduction of plate armour led to the development of more tapered, sharply pointed blades favouring the thrust. Single-handed swords were also used on horseback, for instance when the mounted warrior's polearm had been broken or lost in the fray or was too unwieldy for close quarters situations.

Please note that this sword is not a battle ready weapon. It is designed as a collector's or decoration/display piece and is not suited for combat reenactment. Besides its quality as a collectible, it is also perfectly suited as a prop, e.g. to complete your costume.

Specifications:

• Material: high carbon steel blade (not stainless), leather-wrapped grip
• Overall length: approx. 96cm
• Blade length: approx. ca. 77cm
• Blade width at guard: approx. 3.5cm
• Hilt length: approx. 19cm (grip approx. 12cm)
• Weight: approx. 1.1 kg

Specs may slightly vary from piece to piece.

The steel used here is not rust-proof and might show slight surface tarnishing in places. We recommend you to maintain the blade on a regular basis, for example using Ballistol Universal Oil, which is ideally suited for steel care.